Japan Onsen Guide
Onsen (温泉) are natural hot springs, and soaking in them is quintessentially Japanese. Whether you want a luxury ryokan experience or a quick soak between sightseeing, this guide covers everything you need to know.
What Is an Onsen?
Onsen vs Sento
| Type | What It Is | Water Source | Price |
|---|---|---|---|
| Onsen (温泉) | Natural hot spring | Volcanic/geothermal | ¥500-2,000+ |
| Sento (銭湯) | Public bathhouse | Heated tap water | ¥400-500 |
| Super Sento | Large bath complex | Mixed sources | ¥1,000-2,500 |
True onsen must meet specific mineral content and temperature requirements set by Japanese law.
Types of Onsen
By Setting:
- Rotenburo (露天風呂) - Outdoor bath
- Uchiburo (内風呂) - Indoor bath
- Kashikiri (貸切風呂) - Private rental bath
- Ashiyu (足湯) - Foot bath (free, clothed)
By Water Type:
| Type | Characteristics | Good For |
|---|---|---|
| Sulfur (硫黄) | Egg smell, milky | Skin, circulation |
| Sodium chloride | Salty, warming | Muscle pain |
| Bicarbonate | Fizzy feeling | Skin softening |
| Iron | Reddish color | Anemia |
| Acidic | Tangy, strong | Skin conditions |
| Simple | Clear, mild | Sensitive skin |
Onsen Etiquette
The Basics (Non-Negotiable)
1. Wash thoroughly before entering - Soap, rinse, repeat 2. No swimsuits - Unless specifically allowed 3. No towels in water - Place on head or poolside 4. Tie up long hair - Keep it out of the water 5. No swimming or splashing - It's for soaking, not playing 6. Quiet voices - Respectful atmosphere 7. Rinse before leaving - Quick shower
Step-by-Step Guide
Before You Go: 1. Remove shoes at entrance 2. Pay at front desk 3. Receive towel and locker key 4. Go to correct gender side (男 = men, 女 = women)
In the Changing Room: 1. Undress completely 2. Store everything in locker 3. Take only small towel into bathing area
Washing Area: 1. Find a washing station (showers with stools) 2. Sit on stool 3. Thoroughly wash body and hair with soap 4. Rinse completely - no soap residue
Bathing: 1. Enter water slowly (it's hot!) 2. Soak and relax 3. Small towel goes on head or poolside 4. Don't stay too long in hot water (15-20 min max)
After: 1. Rinse off 2. Dry off before entering changing room 3. Hydrate - drink water
What NOT to Do
- Don't put towel in the water
- Don't run or dive
- Don't take photos
- Don't drink alcohol before (dangerous)
- Don't enter if you're sick
- Don't use other people's toiletries
Tattoos and Onsen
The Situation
Many onsen ban tattoos due to yakuza associations. However, this is slowly changing.
Your Options
1. Tattoo-Friendly Onsen Growing list of places welcome tattoos:
- Many in tourist areas (Hakone, Beppu)
- International hotel chains
- Some super sento
Resources:
- tattoo-friendly.jp (database)
- Hotel concierge can call ahead
- Ask "Tattoo wa daijoubu desu ka?"
2. Cover Small Tattoos
- Skin-colored patches - Available at drugstores
- Bandages - For very small tattoos
- Some onsen provide covers
3. Private Baths (Kashikiri)
- Rent entire bath privately
- Usually 45-60 minutes
- ¥2,000-5,000 per session
- No one sees your tattoos
4. In-Room Onsen
- Ryokan with private baths
- More expensive but complete privacy
- Best option for heavily tattooed visitors
Tattoo-Friendly Regions
More Accepting:
- Beppu (many tattoo-friendly)
- Hakone (tourist-oriented)
- Hokkaido (some areas)
- Major city super sento
More Traditional (Stricter):
- Rural areas
- Traditional ryokan
- Local community onsen
Best Onsen Destinations
Hakone (箱根)
Why Go: Close to Tokyo, mountain views, many ryokan
Distance from Tokyo: 1.5 hours by train
Famous Spots:
- Yunessun - Fun spa park (swimsuits OK)
- Tenzan Tohji-kyo - Outdoor baths, tattoo-friendly
- Hakone Yuryo - Modern, beautiful
- Traditional ryokan with private baths
Best For: First-timers, Tokyo day trips, couples
Beppu (別府)
Why Go: Most hot spring water in Japan, diverse bath types
Location: Kyushu (Oita Prefecture)
Famous Spots:
- Jigoku Meguri (Hell Tour) - See, don't bathe
- Takegawara Onsen - Historic sand baths
- Hyotan Onsen - Outdoor paradise
- Kannawa area - Steam cooking, local baths
Best For: Onsen enthusiasts, variety seekers
Kusatsu (草津)
Why Go: Famous water quality, traditional atmosphere
Distance from Tokyo: 3 hours by bus/train
Famous Spots:
- Yubatake - Iconic hot water field
- Sainokawara Park - Huge outdoor bath
- Otakinoyu - Strong acidic water
- Free public baths throughout town
Best For: Traditional experience, serious soakers
Kinosaki (城崎)
Why Go: Town of seven public baths, yukata walking
Location: Hyogo Prefecture (near Kyoto)
Experience:
- Stay at ryokan
- Wear yukata through town
- Visit all 7 public baths (pass included with stay)
- Charming traditional streetscape
Best For: Romantic getaways, traditional atmosphere
Noboribetsu (登別)
Why Go: Hokkaido's premier onsen, dramatic landscape
Location: Hokkaido (1.5 hours from Sapporo)
Famous For:
- Jigokudani (Hell Valley) - Volcanic scenery
- Multiple water types in one town
- Dai-ichi Takimotokan - 35 baths in one ryokan
- Bear park nearby
Best For: Hokkaido visitors, variety seekers
Arima (有馬)
Why Go: Ancient onsen near Kyoto/Osaka, two water types
Location: Near Kobe
Famous For:
- Kinsen (金泉) - Golden, iron-rich water
- Ginsen (銀泉) - Silver, clear water
- Compact, walkable town
- Day trip from Osaka/Kyoto
Best For: Kansai visitors, historic experience
Dogo Onsen (道後)
Why Go: Japan's oldest onsen, Studio Ghibli inspiration
Location: Matsuyama, Shikoku
Famous For:
- Dogo Onsen Honkan - Historic wooden bathhouse
- Said to be 3,000 years old
- Inspired "Spirited Away" bathhouse
- Currently under renovation (partial access)
Best For: History lovers, Ghibli fans
Yufuin (由布院)
Why Go: Artistic town, mountain backdrop, boutique ryokan
Location: Oita Prefecture, Kyushu
Famous For:
- Charming main street
- Art galleries and cafes
- Quieter alternative to Beppu
- Scenic train from Fukuoka
Best For: Couples, relaxation seekers
Ryokan Onsen Experience
What Is a Ryokan?
Traditional Japanese inn featuring:
- Tatami rooms
- Futon bedding
- Kaiseki dinner
- Private or shared onsen
- Yukata provided
What to Expect
Check-in (3-4 PM typical): 1. Remove shoes at entrance 2. Welcome tea and sweets 3. Room tour and explanation 4. Change into yukata
Evening:
- Bathe before dinner (best timing)
- Kaiseki dinner (multi-course traditional)
- Often served in room
- Staff prepare futon while you eat
Morning:
- Morning bath
- Japanese breakfast
- Check out by 10-11 AM
Price Ranges
| Level | Price per Person | What You Get |
|---|---|---|
| Budget | ¥8,000-15,000 | Basic room, shared bath |
| Mid-range | ¥15,000-30,000 | Good room, nice meals |
| Luxury | ¥30,000-60,000 | Private bath, kaiseki |
| Ultra-luxury | ¥60,000-150,000+ | Suite, premium everything |
Note: Prices usually include dinner AND breakfast.
Booking Tips
- Book 2-3 months ahead for popular places
- Japanese booking sites (Jalan, Rakuten) have better selection
- Email directly for special requests
- Note if bath is private or shared
Day-Trip Onsen Options
Super Sento
Large bath facilities with multiple pools, often including:
- Various temperature baths
- Saunas
- Restaurants
- Rest areas
- Sometimes overnight stays
Popular Chains:
- Oedo Onsen Monogatari (theme park style)
- Raku Spa (urban locations)
- Spa World (Osaka)
Price: ¥1,500-3,000
Hotel Day Use
Many hot spring hotels offer day use:
- Access to onsen facilities
- Sometimes includes lunch
- Good way to try luxury ryokan
- Usually ¥1,500-5,000
Public Town Baths
In onsen towns, many have cheap public baths:
- Very local experience
- Usually ¥200-500
- Basic facilities
- Authentic atmosphere
Seasonal Considerations
Best Times
Winter (Dec-Feb):
- Snow onsen (yukimi buro)
- Most atmospheric
- Cold outside, hot water = bliss
- Can be crowded during holidays
Autumn (Sept-Nov):
- Foliage views from rotenburo
- Pleasant temperatures
- Peak season for ryokan
- Book well ahead
Spring (Mar-May):
- Cherry blossoms at some locations
- Comfortable weather
- Less crowded than autumn
Summer (June-Aug):
- Hot and humid
- Less appealing for some
- Mountain onsen still nice
- Better deals available
Avoid
- Golden Week (late April-early May)
- Obon (mid-August)
- New Year (Dec 31-Jan 3)
- Three-day weekends
Health & Safety
Who Should Avoid Onsen
- Pregnant women (consult doctor)
- People with heart conditions
- Those with open wounds
- After heavy drinking
- If you have fever or illness
- Very high/low blood pressure
Safety Tips
- Hydrate before and after
- Don't stay in hot water too long
- Watch for dizziness when standing
- Cool down between different baths
- Avoid very hot baths if not accustomed
- Know your limits
Temperatures
| Type | Temperature | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Lukewarm | 35-38°C | Easy for beginners |
| Standard | 40-42°C | Most common |
| Hot | 43-45°C | For experienced bathers |
| Very hot | 46°C+ | Caution required |
Practical Information
What to Bring
Essential:
- Nothing (most provide everything)
Optional:
- Own toiletries (quality varies)
- Hair ties
- Skin-colored tattoo covers
- Waterproof bag for wet items
Useful Japanese
| English | Japanese | When to Use |
|---|---|---|
| Hot spring | Onsen (温泉) | General |
| Outdoor bath | Rotenburo (露天風呂) | Asking for outdoor |
| Private bath | Kashikiri-buro (貸切風呂) | Reserving private |
| Men | Otoko (男) | Finding correct entrance |
| Women | Onna (女) | Finding correct entrance |
| Is it OK to have tattoos? | Tattoo wa daijoubu desu ka? | Checking policy |
Mixed Gender Bathing
Konyoku (混浴):
- Rare but exists at some traditional onsen
- Usually elderly guests
- Modesty with small towels
- Not recommended for beginners
Budget Options
Cheapest Ways to Enjoy Onsen
1. Free foot baths (ashiyu) - Many onsen towns have them 2. Public baths - ¥200-500 in onsen towns 3. Super sento - ¥1,000-1,500 with facilities 4. Day passes - At hotels without staying 5. Ryokan without meals - Significantly cheaper
Splurge-Worthy Experiences
1. Snow onsen - Winter rotenburo 2. Private bath with view - Mountain or ocean 3. Kaiseki at top ryokan - Full experience 4. Sand baths at Beppu - Unique 5. Ancient bathhouses - Dogo Onsen
Onsen culture is one of Japan's greatest pleasures. Start with a super sento if you're nervous, graduate to a proper onsen town, and eventually treat yourself to a ryokan stay. Your muscles (and stress levels) will thank you.
